Day 2

I awake to another wonderful morning. This is too good to be true. Over 48 hours of perfect weather. Despite smelling, no doubt, like an over-exercised teenager the midges are on me almost immediately as I rise out of my hole. I hurriedly gather my stuff and move out onto the forest track where the cool breeze ensures the midges don’t follow. My spirits are high and physically I’m feeling OK, bar a slightly stiff neck and a hankering for some coffee.

After a brief energy bar breakfast and some diary jotting I climb back on the bike and fly through Betws-y-Coed, enjoying the easy start to the day. The forest tracks flow smoothly and I feel relaxed, although I make sure I keep half an eye on the map to stop myself disappearing on the wrong forest track as is so easily done. The route takes me past a spot I visited for a friends 30^th. It’s a strange feeling thinking back to what feels an age ago and a very different life.

I opt to head off route into Dolgellau for caffeine and a more pleasurable bite to eat. I’m to “schedule” and the detour is minimal, plus I join a cycleway on the Mawddach as I leave the town which will be easy riding.

The coffee and snack are welcome and the nice lady in the shop tops up my water and charges my phone. I notice how few Welsh people there seem to be around, more Birmingham, but perhaps this is selective hearing. Sat having my coffee I can feel the journey in my legs and my arse has taken a little while to settle in the saddle again. I’m definitely a padded short convert! Where would I be without them? I think I’m also riding with a slow puncture, but for now it’s holding pressure long enough to not fuss about it.

I cock up leaving Dolgellau. A tail wind pushes me along the cycleway at a fast pace and I get caught up enjoying the stunning Mawddach estuary. It continues to be a beautiful day. I twig too late I’ve passed the turning and back-track. Cycling back into the wind is a different experience and I discover I’ve passed it by some distance. I actually looked at the exit into the trees as I cycled by! More sloppy map reading. I won’t do that again…

It becomes a big climb into the mountains again, surrounded by awesome landscape. There are no big hike-a-bikes, rather just relentless up hill cycling, made all the more intimidating by the presence of Cadair Idris bearing down me. I leave lunch too late. I’m feeling fatigued, hot, angry and a little funny in the head, like I’ve had too much sun. It’s clear I can no longer ignore the puncture too so I stop, drink, eat, stem the hunger-rage and rest. Then change the tube, finding a much needed hidden note from my girlfriend in the process, which helps no end. Revived I set off again. Up and up in the blazing sun, enjoying the views across to Barmouth and fighting off the cries for a swim in the cool blue sea.

As I’d quickly discovered, every up would be rewarded by a fantastic down and today this was true on an awesome scale with a supreme down-hill. Utterly epic. It seems to run for countless kilometres, effectively ejecting me from Snowdonia National Park like a rocket. My face is a fixed grin, taking pleasure in the speed, the moments of technical riding mixed with easy gravel track and grass and calling out a cheerful hello as I ping past the odd surprised farmer.

I’m once again conscious my brakes are taking a hammering. My braking is measured, but I’m sure I could fry steak and egg on the discs. I take full advantage of long fast open stretches to let them cool, keeping my eyes permanently on the sharp look out for suicidal sheep.

Back on flatter land I grab a bite to eat before climbing over hills to drop down into the Dyfi valley, joining the A493 for a rather protracted road ride into Machynlleth. Looking back there is probably a decent alternative off-road route to the north through Foel Goch, but at the time I wasn’t too concerned with seeking detours.

I take great pleasure in riding into Mach. It’s another old haunt, but it brings into reality the fact that the town is lacking in eateries so I settle with the White Lion, which actually turns out to be a great choice. I enjoy some good food and a nice pause amongst a happy bunch of people in the beer garden, all enjoying the ongoing sunshine. As I add to my diary I realise that, as well as being blessed with extraordinary sun, the lack of wind, or at least head wind is really helping and easing the ride.

I plan to go a little further, but not so far I get caught in the middle of the uplands. My girlfriend has mentioned possible rain, so I’m thinking I’ll need trees again. The camping arrangement has worked in the dry weather but I’m sure it’ll be soggy if it rains. As I’m leaving the town I opt for a slight change of plan and decide to make a punt for a spot in a small independent caravan club site. The owner is a saint and allows me to stay at his caravan park for free. It gives me time to set up properly, tucked away in his quiet garden. Midges are about but not in vast numbers so I take time to relax, write my diary and read before hitting the sack.